Whoa, very impressive! I had to guess a few to get GOA1DPart of India popular with tourists[---]/OWAIN6AGlyndwr, Lord of Glyndyfrdwy (I know, crazy, right?)[-----] but otherwise very smooth, especially given the constraint!
Thanks kjb (initials OK just in this situation?) I'll look at that forum tomorrow. Was your cryptic grid in UK form? I think filling such a grid might not call for as much work, but fully cryptic hints without you-know-what must vigorously tax your writing skills! You got a link to it?